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The lobby of Yoshinoya inn in Kusatsu, Gunma Prefecture, has a pellet stove. Beverages are free for guests.
By Kyoko Kitade / Special to Ryoko Yomiuri Publication
12:03 JST, February 19, 2025
KUSATSU, Gunma — Accommodations without meals have been increasing in the Kusatsu Onsen hot spring resort in Kusatsu, Gunma Prefecture, in line with a recent trend of separating lodging and eating.
One such accommodation is Yoshinoya, just a two-minute walk from Yubatake, the main hot spring and a symbol of the town. By using this type of accommodation, tourists can enjoy traveling more freely, doing whatever they want to do — eating snacks outdoors, visiting bathhouses or just strolling around — where and when they like.
This spacious, 16-tatami-mat guest room at the inn is clean and very comfortable.
Two large lanterns impressively flank the gate of Yoshinoya inn. Step inside, and you will find yourself in a lobby with a welcoming and relaxed atmosphere. Checking in at the reception desk, you will receive a local bar and restaurant guide brochure after hearing explanations about the inn and its services. Drinking and dining establishments in Kusatsu Onsen are listed with a schedule for morning, lunchtime and evening. Tell the inn staff your preferences, and they will politely recommend restaurants or bars to suit your liking.
The hot water used for Yoshinoya’s indoor baths is natural hot spring water directly drawn from the famed Yubatake hot spring.
The guest room I stayed at was a Japanese-style room with 16 tatami mats. I was amazed at how spacious and luxurious it was. The room’s many amenities included a desk and sofa, a washstand, a refrigerator, a humidifier and a kettle. A fluffy futon quilt made my stay all the cozier.
Yoshinoya’s men’s and women’s indoor baths are filled with 100% natural hot spring water from Yubatake. The water from the chloride spring, which has a pH of 2.1 and contains sulfur, aluminum and sulfate, flows abundantly into simple bathtubs made of stone. Visible mineral deposits called yunohana float on the surface as the scent of sulfur floats on the air. The hot water tingles slightly on one’s skin even as it envelops one’s body in gentle warmth. After my bath at the inn, I relaxed in the spacious lobby lounge, heated by a pellet stove. Beverages such as water, coffee, Japanese tea and English tea are free at the lounge. In a nice touch, even the popsicles are free.
The Yubatake main hot spring in Kusatsu is illuminated in the evening, with clouds of steam creating a fantastic atmosphere.
In the evening, I leisurely strolled to a local izakaya dining bar, where I enjoyed food and sake from Gunma Prefecture. Then I walked around Yubatake, which was illuminated after dark, and was mesmerized by the dancing clouds of steam lit up in many colors, creating a fantastic atmosphere. To re-warm my body chilled by the cold air outside, I took a hot bath again before going to sleep and dreaming the night away.
Yoshinoya serves no dinner, but the buffet-style breakfast is free.
The following morning, I refreshed myself with another bath followed by a free all-you-can-eat breakfast served buffet-style in the lobby. I was more than satisfied by a wide selection of food — bread, soups, egg dishes, sausages, yogurt and more. The inn readily holds your luggage even after you have checked out, so you can continue to freely wander and fully enjoy Kusatsu Onsen.
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Japan Tourism is presented in collaboration with Ryoko Yomiuri Publication, which publishes Ryoko Yomiuri, a monthly travel magazine. If you are interested in the original Japanese version of this story, click here.
