Hand-Ground, Aroma-Perfecting, Dressed Dishes; 1 Recipe Comes from 1872

By Tomoyo Yamada / Yomiuri Shimbun Staff Writer

12:30 JST, December 21, 2025

Culinary researcher Ryuta Kijima introduces the classical home-style dishes of daikon radish with walnut dressing and persimmon shiraae mashed tofu salad.

Using a suribachi (a traditional mortar or grinding bowl) enriches the aroma of the ingredients and makes the texture smoother. The deeply satisfying flavor is perfect with an evening drink.

Nowadays, there may be many households that do not have a suribachi.

“There are unique flavors and textures that only a suribachi can bring out,” Kijima said. “The process itself is also deeply rewarding and comforting.”

Nevertheless, a food processor can be used as an alternative.

First, Kijima prepares the daikon radish with walnut dressing.

The recipe was featured in a book by his late grandmother, Akiko Murakami, who was also a culinary researcher. She notes that the dish was “taught to me by my grandmother, who was born in 1872.”

Kijima said he ate it when he was little.

For the dish, daikon radishes and carrots are simmered just enough to retain a crisp texture. They are then cooled.

In the meantime, walnuts are ground and seasoned.

According to the original recipe, the mixture is then thinned with sake. However, if you prefer not to use sake, dashi broth makes an excellent substitute.

It is important to mix everything thoroughly and frequently with the pestle. This ensures that the walnut miso becomes smooth and palatable.

Finally, toss the drained daikon and other vegetables in the mixture, and the dish is ready.

The refreshing crispness of the daikon provides a sharp contrast to the rich, creamy dressing.

This wonderful dish goes well with drinks.

The second dish is shiraae using seasonal persimmons.

The crucial step is draining the tofu: It needs to be coarsely mashed and then placed between several layers of thick paper towels and pressed to remove all moisture.

Sesame seeds are ground in the suribachi, and then the pressed tofu is added. The mixture is then ground further.

Adding persimmon and cucumber completes the dish, resulting in a vibrant, eye-catching aemono dressed dish.

The ground sesame seeds are creamy, rich and highly fragrant.

The subtly sweet tofu dressing complements the juicy persimmon, while the saltiness of the cucumber provides a pleasant contrast.

Any sweet fruit, like grapes, would work well.

“These are two flavors I intend to continue to prepare for years to come,” Kijima said.

Daikon radish with walnut dressing

Ingredients : (Serves 2-3)

• 5 centimeters or 250 grams daikon radish (thick part, unpeeled)
• 5 centimeters carrot (thin part)
• 30 grams unsalted roasted walnuts
• 4 tbsp dashi broth
• Also: soy sauce, sugar, sake, miso



Directions:

1. Peel the daikon radish thickly and cut it into rectangular sticks like French fries.

2. Peel the carrot and cut it into thin strips 3mm wide.

3. Bring 2 tsp of soy sauce, 1/2 tsp of sugar and the dashi broth to a boil in a pot, add the daikon and carrot, simmer for about 3 minutes, turn off the heat and let cool.

4. Grind the walnuts in a suribachi until they form a smooth paste. Then add 1 tbsp of miso and 1/2 tbsp of sugar. Gradually add 1–3 tsp of sake, continuing to grind with the pestle until the mixture is uniform and smooth. This completes the walnut miso.

5. Mix the drained daikon and carrots with the walnut miso. Serve on a plate.

Persimmon shiraae

Ingredients (Serves 2-3)

• 1 persimmon
• 1/2 block firm tofu
• 1/2 cucumber
• 1 tbsp roasted white sesame seeds
• Also: sugar, salt



Directions:

1. Line a tray with two sheets of thick paper towel, place the tofu on top and mash and spread with a fork. Cover the tofu with two more sheets of paper towel, roll the stack into a cylinder and squeeze out the moisture firmly. Leave to rest for about 3 minutes.

2. Slice the cucumber in half lengthwise and then diagonally into 3 mm-wide pieces. Toss with two pinches of salt.

3. Grind the sesame seeds in a suribachi.

4. Squeeze the tofu again to remove excess moisture and add it to the ground sesame seeds. Mash them together in the suribachi. Stir in 1 tsp of sugar and two pinches of salt.

5. Peel and cut the persimmon into bite-sized pieces and combine with the prepared tofu.

6. Drain the cucumber and mix it with the tofu and persimmon. Transfer the finished dish to a serving plate.

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  Simmer the daikon and carrots for about 3 minutes.

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  The Yomiuri Shimbun
  Grind the walnuts in a mortar until they form a paste.

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  Place the tofu on a paper towel laid out on the cutting board, mash it, cover it with another paper towel and squeeze out the moisture.

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