Japanese Chef of Italian Restaurant in Tokyo Offers Milanese Risotto; Bright Colors, Rich Flavors in Simple Steps

The Yomiuri Shimbun
Milan-style risotto

Risotto is a classic Italian rice dish made by sauteing uncooked rice grains which are then simmered in a bouillon.

Chef Yoshinaga Jinbo recently introduced a Milan-style risotto, made using saffron powder.

In Japan, rice is seen as an ingredient to be cooked until fluffy and soft, but risotto is different.

“Risotto’s appeal is its al dente texture, as the rice grains retain their firmness with their center intact,” said Jinbo.

The Milanese style calls for adding saffron powder for color.

For this recipe, Jinbo used an Italian variety of rice called Carnaroli, which can be bought in stores that sell imported goods or found online.

A popular option for risotto, Carnaroli’s grains are larger and less sticky than Japanese rice varieties.

In Italy, rice is said to taste better after being stored for several years. Even if using Japanese rice, it is better to use older rice — one year old, at least.

In making risotto, the rice is neither washed nor soaked beforehand. Cooking the grains dry ensures the bouillon’s umami can be properly absorbed.

Prior to simmering, the rice is sauteed in butter, coating the surface of the grains. This not only enriches the flavor, but also keeps the rice grains from crumbling.

Bouillon is added gradually, in three or four batches, until the rice is covered.

To prevent the temperature from dropping when adding the bouillon, heat it in a separate pot and keep it hot.

Jinbo compared the appearance of when the rice is properly simmering to the image of “crabs making air bubbles in water.”

Too much sauteing can crush the rice and create a soggy texture. Instead, it is better to frequently shake the pot when cooking.

After simmering for a while, the rice takes on a yellow color and becomes plump. If there is only a little hardness left in the rice core when you taste-test it, turn off the heat.

The rich aroma of saffron softly wafts from the golden-colored risotto. The texture is pleasant, and each chew reveals the combination of flavors and the depth of cheese well.

Just by only following these simple steps, you can achieve an authentic staple of Italian cuisine.

Milan-style risotto

Ingredients (serves 2 to 3):

  • 200 grams uncooked Carnaroli rice
  • 1/4 onion
  • 40 grams Parmesan cheese
  • 700 milliliters bouillon
  • 50 grams butter
  • 0.2 grams saffron powder (chopped up saffron can also be used)
  • Spice saffron for garnishing
  • Salt to taste
  • Olive oil to taste

  • Directions:

    1. Mince the onion. Finely grate the parmesan cheese. In a small pot, heat the bouillon.

    2. In another pot, melt the butter over low or medium heat and add the onion. Saute lightly.

    3. Put the rice into a pot containing the onions and saute until mixed fully with the butter. Saute until the rice is heated. Add the saffron powder and stir again.

    4. Pour in just enough bouillon to soak into the rice. Raise to a simmer, while occasionally shaking the pot.

    5. Once the liquid is reduced, add more bouillon to soak again and saute everything lightly. While shaking the pot, continue to simmer. Repeat this process around three times.

    6. Once the rice becomes fluffy, taste-test to confirm if al dente. If still too hard, add more bouillon and leave to simmer longer. When the rice retains only a slight hardness in the center and the liquid is almost absorbed, turn off the heat.

    7. Add the grated parmesan cheese and quickly saute to combine. Add salt according to taste.

    8. Serve on a plate. Drizzle olive oil and sprinkle additional grated Parmesan cheese to finish. Garnish with saffron.

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