Japan Tourism / Witness Magic of Firefly Squid, Rare White Shrimp from Toyama Bay

By Yuki Deguchi / Special to Ryoko Yomiuri Publication

13:00 JST, April 1, 2025

Across diverse regions in Toyama Prefecture, there are many seasonal ingredients that herald the arrival of spring. One of the profound delights of traveling is getting to savor freshly harvested local delicacies, prepared using time-honored culinary traditions.

To fully appreciate hotaruika firefly squid during this period, visit the Hotaruika Museum in Namerikawa in the prefecture, which provides detailed information on their ecology. Located near the fish-landing port of Namerikawa, the museum stands on the grounds of a Michi-no-Eki roadside rest area.

Named for their captivating ability to emit a bluish-white light reminiscent of fireflies dancing across the night sea, firefly squid have about 1,000 light-producing organs within their small 7-centimeter-long bodies. These migratory cephalopods travel to Toyama Bay each spring to spawn.

The bay’s unique seabed topography, characterized by a sudden and dramatic descent from the coastline, is believed to attract these large schools of squid. Last season’s exceptional catch exceeded 4,000 tons, more than triple the typical yield.

Firefly squid fishing in Toyama Bay is done with fixed nets set 2 to 3 kilometers offshore.

“Firefly squid typically dwell in the deep sea at depths of 200 to 600 meters. Only females ascend to shallower coastal waters during the spawning season, leading to the capture of squids,” said Masaki Kobayashi, director of business operations at the Hotaruika Museum.

Situated on the museum’s second floor, Panorama Restaurant Kousai boasts a breathtaking panoramic view of Toyama Bay through its expansive floor-to-ceiling windows. Visitors can even see the fixed nets for firefly squid. Located so close to the fishing grounds, it is no wonder that the morning’s catch promises to be exceptionally fresh and flavorful.

I enjoyed “firefly squid gozen,” a feast of cephalopod delicacies, including firefly squid dressed with vinegar and miso, tempura and sashimi. The plump flesh of the boiled squid along with the rich taste of its entrails proved utterly irresistible. The fresh sashimi, with its firm and slightly chewy texture, proved that this exquisite taste can only be found in this prime harvesting region.

From April 1 to May 6, the Firefly Squid Boat Tour 2025 will offer an extraordinary opportunity to witness firefly squid fishing firsthand. The sight of a large school of firefly squid, hauled up in nets, emitting light all at once in the dark sea before dawn is an ethereal spectacle worth seeing. The museum will also host its annual spring firefly squid festival on April 26.

The Kanetsuru Sunago Shoten store, a 15-minute walk from the museum, offers a taste of local traditions, including its freshly pickled firefly squid marinated in soy sauce, and seasonal factory tours.

Rare shrimp in Toyama Bay

Toyama Prefecture also offers the delicate taste of white shrimp, another spring delicacy. These rare, translucent crustaceans, about 6 centimeters in length, are harvested exclusively in Toyama Bay at the Iwase and Shinminato fishing ports, earning them the nickname “jewels of Toyama Bay.”

White shrimp season starts on April 1, with the largest catches occurring in June and July. Annually, around 520 tons are typically harvested, but last year’s catch dropped to an unprecedented 190 tons.

This dramatic decline is likely to have stemmed from the Noto Peninsula Earthquake, which altered the seabed topography and disrupted the white shrimp’s habitat. Recovery is eagerly hoped for this season.

Mizuhashi Shokudo Gyofu, founded in 2021 by local fishermen near Mizuhashi Fishing Port, is a beloved restaurant renowned for its fresh seafood. The eatery features dishes with white shrimp and firefly squid caught in the bay.

The peeled white shrimp here had an exceptionally silky texture, and its rich sweetness proved absolutely delicious. I couldn’t help eating more. The savory white shrimp kakiage tempura, fried shell and all, is another local favorite. The shrimp’s sweetness increases when fried and its delicate flavor pairs beautifully with the lightly crisped onions.

This restaurant also benefits from its proximity to the firefly squid fishing grounds. “Our secret is to gently poach the firefly squid in a finely crafted broth of kelp and bonito flakes,” said Yu Kunogi, the head chef of the restaurant. The classic firefly squid dressed with vinegar and miso is also exceptionally delicious.

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Japan Tourism is presented in collaboration with Ryoko Yomiuri Publication, which publishes Ryoko Yomiuri, a monthly travel magazine. If you are interested in the original Japanese version of this story, click here.