This Nonalcoholic White Russian Is a Rich Winter Cocktail for Everyone

Lauren Bulbin/The Washington Post; food styling by Lisa Cherkasky
Nonalcoholic White Russian.

As the days get shorter, the nights longer, and the air has grown so chilled that even the gentlest of breezes feels like a slap in the face, the city sparkles with twinkling lights everywhere. You know what time it is …

It’s time to start drinking heavy cream again.

Your body has been begging for it as the temperatures drop, just as your ancestors’ did when the first frost kissed their fields and the specter of famine rattled their gruel-fueled lives. Somewhere deep inside you is a beast that knows nature is unforgiving, and when facing a frigid winter, only the plumpest survive.

Much like the bears, I find myself at the end of this year with a raging desire to run into the deepest, darkest depths of the woods and hole up in a cave with no WiFi. In warmer months my cream cravings might seem reckless, but in this climate they’re all about survival. If I need to guzzle pints of heavy cream to feel satiated, so be it.

Many recipes for cold-weather cocktails, including eggnog and coquito, are still delicious even when the alcohol is omitted, making them ideal for sober folks such as myself. And in the event we want to jazz them up to taste like the originals, there’s now a bevy of fine nonalcoholic spirits that can stand in for bourbon or rum. But recently, on the grayest of days, I found myself desperately wanting a White Russian, with seemingly no good way to replicate it.

To be clear: I do not miss alcohol, and I understand that not every cocktail from my drinking days can be perfectly replicated. But a White Russian isn’t just a drink – it’s a ritual. I’d always gotten a hankering for it every time I watched “The Big Lebowski,” and thanks to the repetitive nature of cable television in the early aughts, I watched that movie a lot. I’ve found myself watching again in recent weeks, as my recent flirtations with nihilism qualified it as a heartwarming holiday movie.

But a White Russian – equal parts vodka, Kahlúa and heavy cream – is too simple a cocktail for straightforward swaps. Flavorless vodka is there only for alcohol content, and the closest nonalcoholic equivalent to Kahlúa is espresso and enough sugar to flirt with syrup territory. An alcoholic White Russian is made with almost no effort, yet delivers a vibe of luxury and indulgence. Cold espresso and cream is something you can get at Starbucks in a paper cup.

To be more than a coffee-bar drink, a virgin White Russian needs something a little bit extra – nothing so ostentatious that it takes over, but not so innocuous that it disappears altogether. And after quite a bit of experimentation, I’ve found there’s something about a high-quality root beer that really ties it all together.

It’s hard to describe the flavor of root beer, as it’s designed to be confusing: The base notes are a hodgepodge of spices, tree barks and plant roots that haven’t been in common conversation since the apothecary days and that you’re unlikely to taste in any context but soda. Today most mass manufacturers arrive at this flavor through artificial means, which is fine for when you’re messing around with ice cream floats on a scorching summer’s day. But in winter, when we are indulging not just for our souls but possibly for our very survival, treating yourself to the good stuff, companies such as Rocky Mountain Soda Co. and Sprecher are still making root beer the right way, and good ingredients make a huge difference.

White Russians aren’t supposed to be bubbly, but you need not worry about that when using root beer. Stirring it with instant espresso powder noticeably decreases the effervescence, before the dense richness of the heavy cream all but buries it. If you’re tempted to lighten things up by substituting half-and-half or some sort of a “healthy” creamer I can’t stop you, but I urge you to at least consider the pleas of your inner animal who wants you to go all in. You won’t regret it.

Nonalcoholic White Russian

While not a perfect copy of the original White Russian, this virgin take rings many of the same sensory bells. To make it feel even more special, spring for the best root beer you can find – using one made with quality ingredients makes a noticeable difference.

Servings: 1 drink

Total time: 5 minutes

Where to buy: Rocky Mountain Soda Co. or Sprecher Brewing Company root beer can be found at well-stocked supermarkets, specialty markets and online.

INGREDIENTS

–4 ounces cold root beer, preferably a high-quality craft brand (see Where to buy)

–1 teaspoon instant espresso powder (regular or decaf), plus more as needed

–Ice

–2 ounces heavy cream

DIRECTIONS

In a rocks glass, gently stir together half of the root beer and the espresso powder until fully dissolved. The mixture will foam and bubble and rise up in the glass. Let the foaming subside, then add the remaining root beer and stir to combine. Add ice to fill, then gently pour in the cream. If you want to get a distinct layered effect, pour the cream over the back of a spoon. Taste, and add more espresso powder, 1/4 teaspoon at a time, if desired. Serve right away, stirring the soda mixture and cream together just before drinking.

Substitutions: Regular root beer >> diet root beer. Dairy-free? >> Use nondairy heavy cream.

Nutritional information per serving (1 drink) | 253 Calories: 13g Carbohydrates, 80mg Cholesterol, 24g Fat, 0g Fiber, 0g Protein, 12g Saturated Fat, 36mg Sodium, 13g Sugar

This analysis is an estimate based on available ingredients and this preparation. It should not substitute for a dietitian’s or nutritionist’s advice.

From food writer Allison Robicelli.