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Work to dry Pacific cod in cold outdoor weather is fully underway in Wakkanai, Hokkaido. A local specialty called bodara is made by drying cod both indoors and outdoors, exposing it to cold winds and sunlight from autumn to spring until there is no moisture left inside. The fish shrinks to one-tenth the weight it was when freshly caught, and the sun and wind help bring out its umami flavor. Bodara is shipped mainly to the Kansai region, starting in autumn, to be used in simmered dishes and for New Year’s feasts.
