Single Style / Can Nondrinkers in Japan Enjoy Going to Bars Alone?; Checking Out a Variety of Nonalcoholic Drinks at Bars
10:00 JST, October 7, 2024
It has been more than seven years since I became a working adult. Sometimes I feel like taking a breather after work and going to a bar by myself. My image of bars is that they have a calm and adult atmosphere. Since I rarely drink alcohol, I used to feel a little hesitant about going to bars by myself.
The first time I did this, I began by searching for a bar. I found one that carefully explained the nonalcoholic drinks on its website. The explanations said things like, “This alcohol-free cocktail has a complex and lovely flavor.” It sounded good to me.
I climbed the stairs in a building in Higashi Ward, Nagoya, not far from my workplace. I opened the door of Bar Stair slowly and tentatively. Looking in, I saw two men drinking at the counter who apparently came alone. The biggest hurdle might be the moment of going in. However, I overcame this thanks to the encouraging smile of the barkeep, Hiroya Yasuda, and took a seat at the counter. Rows of liquor bottles covered the entire back wall, which was quite a sight.
Feeling a little nervous, I told Yasuda, “I would like a nonalcoholic cocktail using fruit that is in season.”
He replied, “At the moment, we have peach, mango, melon and banana.”
“I’ll have the peach,” I said.
It was a typical conversation between a bartender and a customer. A nice touch is that Yasuda will offer suggestions if you tell him what you’re looking for taste-wise, like a carbonated cocktail with a refreshing flavor.
He served me a nonalcoholic Bellini made with ingredients including nonalcoholic sparkling wine, frozen peach slices and jasmine tea that he prepared right in front of me. The ripe peach-colored cocktail was sweet and had a refreshing scent.
I ordered assorted dried fruits as a small snack and was presented with a plate of figs and blueberries, which seemed to fit the mood of the bar.
My own place to drink
“What a beautiful nonalcoholic cocktail,” said Tomoichi Ikenuma, who was already in the bar when I arrived. “Since it’s so nice, you can have your own place to drink even though you can’t handle too much alcohol,” he said.
Since I was worried about how people who enjoyed drinking would view me, his friendly words made me feel relaxed. “My own place to drink.” I liked how the words sounded.
Ikenuma works for a wholesale food company and used to be in its alcoholic beverage division. In the past, he did not even consider that people who didn’t drink would go to a bar.
“I visited liquor shops and bars every day and asked them to not only buy our products but to place them in a visible area,” Ikenuma said nostalgically. Yasuda gave him a nod. As I listened to them talk about themselves, I felt like I was a part of the place, making me feel warm.
I felt so at home that I said without thinking, “I’d like another cocktail,” a phrase I never expected to utter. This time, I had a nonalcoholic frozen cocktail made using kyoho grapes and Darjeeling tea. The unexpected combination of the two ingredients brought out the flavor of each, leaving a delightful aftertaste.
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The Yomiuri Shimbun
A nonalcoholic Bellini using peach and Jasmine tea -
The Yomiuri Shimbun
Assorted dried fruits -
The Yomiuri Shimbun
Beef stew. Nondrinkers have the option to eat rather than drink alcohol at a bar. -
The Yomiuri Shimbun
The barkeep, Hiroya Yasuda at Bar Stairs in Higashi Ward, Nagoya. -
The Yomiuri Shimbun
A nonalcoholic frozen cocktail using kyoho grapes and Darjeeling tea
Keeping sales up
“Bars are no longer just a place to drink alcohol,” Yasuda said. “Now, people focus on its appeal. More and more people who cannot handle much alcohol are visiting bars.” That included me, who had been attracted to their special atmosphere.
However, nonalcoholic drinks are cheaper than alcoholic ones, so I was worried that I would not be helping their sales as much.
Yasuda carefully selects the ingredients, shows customers how he makes the drink and gives it a gorgeous flair by adding decoratively cut fruits. By doing this, Yasuda offers nonalcoholic cocktails for 60% to 70% of the price for alcoholic drinks. He tries to maintain a certain level of sales from nondrinkers.
Ordering as a nondrinker
Takuya Kano is the president of Sakebunka Institute Inc., a private research institute in Chiyoda Ward, Tokyo, that studies alcohol-drinking culture. He said the following to The Yomiuri Shimbun:
“In the past, when people met up for business, they believed that they were not able to trust others unless both sides got drunk. People also thought they had to drink alcohol if they went to bars or izakaya pubs. However, what is considered an accepted way of thinking has changed little by little. Alcoholic drink manufacturers are sensitive to the fact that the number of nondrinkers is expanding, and they are increasing their lineups of nonalcoholic or low-alcohol products.
“These changes have helped create an atmosphere that lets nondrinkers easily visit bars. The trick to enjoying bars as a nondrinker is to order more than the minimum and not stay too long with just a cup of tea. Choose from the nonalcoholic drinks and food offered by the bar. This will help things go smoothly for both the patron and the bartender.”
Caring about the mood
It seems to me that the environment surrounding drinkers and nondrinkers has changed significantly. Ken Kondo, from Togo, Aichi Prefecture, has a low alcohol tolerance. He said he had a lot of trouble as a nondrinker when he was young. “People who did not drink were not allowed to be at gatherings with alcohol,” he said. I have often heard such stories from my senior colleagues.
Now, people who rarely drink alcohol or don’t drink at all have more freedom.
Maika Iwata, a company employee in Nakamura Ward, Nagoya, gets drunk easily but likes going to bars. She usually orders a highball first and then nonalcoholic cocktails to enjoy the drinking atmosphere and relax. Iwata’s main reason for going to her regular bar is to converse with the barkeep. He means a lot to her, and she can talk about anything with him. Iwata values the fact that he listens to her even though he is neither a friend nor a colleague. She also enjoys interacting with other customers. Now, she is into going to bars alone.
With this visit, I made my debut as a nondrinker going to a bar by myself. I believe that it is very important to fit into a place made for people that like alcohol by not spoiling the mood. Once I take a seat, I am a part of the bar’s community. I want to enjoy interacting with the barkeep and other customers while following the manners of others. I suppose different bars have different attitudes toward nondrinkers. I plan on checking out various places.
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The Single Style feature looks at lifestyles, activities and concerns of single people.
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